Made In Great Britain

Direct from our factory

Free Next Day Delivery

On orders over £750

Product Test Results

All test results published

Expert Technical Advice

Call or chat with our team

130+

Guides and Posts

100's

Of Products

30+

Help Categories

10+

Helpful Staff

Expert solutions for cracks, damp, and unstable surfaces.

Find Your Masonry Preparation Guide

Exterior walls face the harshest conditions. Whether you are dealing with penetrating damp in brickwork, 'blown' render patches, or a chalky surface that needs stabilising, the right preparation is the difference between a 10-year finish and a failure. Search below to find the specific repair method for your building.

Applying flexible grey filler to a hairline crack in a UK red-brick exterior wall.

Treating Hairline Cracks: Why You Need Flexible Exterior Fillers for Damaged Masonry

You spot a thin, spider-web crack running down your rendered wall. It looks minor. You grab a tub of standard powder filler or a bit of leftover cement, smear it over the crack, sand it down, and paint it. It...

Plus

Comparing traditional mortar pointing and modern brush-in jointing compounds on a UK sandstone patio.

Repointing Patio Joints: Mortar vs. Brush-In Compounds

Look at your patio. The slabs are likely fine, but the stuff in between them - the pointing - is cracked, missing, or full of weeds. It ruins the look of the entire garden. You know you need to fix...

Plus

No guides found matching your search.

Try a different keyword.

Fixing Chalky, Dusty & Friable Walls

Stabilising & Priming

The #1 cause of masonry paint failure is applying it to a "dusty" surface. This section covers Stabilising Solutions—the deep-penetrating primers that bind loose render and chalky paint to create a solid base for the topcoat.

Priming High Suction Bricks Before Rendering or Painting - Everest Paints

Plus

Why Your Paint Pealed: The Dangers of Painting Hot/Damp Walls - Everest Paints

Plus

Can You Paint Straight Over Old Masonry Paint? - Everest Paints

Plus

Solvent-Based vs. Water-Based Stabiliser: Which Do You Need? - Everest Paints

Plus

The "Thumb Test": How to Tell if Your Wall Needs Priming - Everest Paints

Plus

Stabilising Solution: How to Stop Flaking Masonry Paint - Everest Paints

Plus

Filling Cracks, Holes & Blown Render

Masonry Repairs

Never paint over a crack. This section guides you through opening up hairline cracks (the V-Cut method), choosing the right flexible exterior fillers, and patching "blown" or hollow render before you pick up a brush.

Applying flexible grey filler to a hairline crack in a UK red-brick exterior wall.

Treating Hairline Cracks: Why You Need Flexible Exterior Fillers for Damaged Masonry

You spot a thin, spider-web crack running down your rendered wall. It looks minor. You grab a tub of standard powder filler or a bit of leftover cement, smear it over the crack, sand it down, and paint it. It...

Plus

Bridging Hairline Cracks with High-Build Masonry Paint - Everest Paints

Plus

Dealing with Movement Joints: Why You Can't Just Fill Them - Everest Paints

Plus

Repairing Spalled Brickwork (Frost Damage) - Everest Paints

Plus

Flexible Acrylic vs. Sand & Cement: Choosing the Right Filler - Everest Paints

Plus

Fixing "Blown" Render: Identification and Patch Repair - Everest Paints

Plus

The Master Guide: How to Repair Cracks in Exterior Render - Everest Paints

Plus

Clear Sealers & Water Repellents

Waterproofing & Damp Preparation

Not everyone wants a coloured paint. Learn how to use Silane/Siloxane impregnators to waterproof brick and stone without changing their appearance. Essential prep for preventing penetrating damp.

Can You Paint Over Water Repellent? (The Compatibility Guide) - Everest Paints

Plus

How Long Does Water Seal Last? Re-coating Intervals - Everest Paints

Plus

Waterproofing Stone: Protecting Sandstone & Limestone - Everest Paints

Plus

"Breathability" Explained: Why Sealing a Wall Completely is Bad - Everest Paints

Plus

Penetrating Damp vs. Rising Damp: Diagnosing the Problem - Everest Paints

Plus

The Master Guide: Applying Clear Water Repellent to Brickwork - Everest Paints

Plus

Pebbledash, Tyrolean & Roughcast

Substrate Specific Preparation

Painting smooth render is easy; painting jagged pebbledash is a challenge. This section covers "Bagging" (slurry coating) to smooth out walls, and specific prep techniques for heavily textured surfaces.

Prep for Lime Render: Avoiding Modern Plastics - Everest Paints

Plus

Painting Breeze Block: Dealing with Pores and Suction - Everest Paints

Plus

Repairing Tyrolean Finish: Matching the Texture - Everest Paints

Plus

What is "Bagging"? Smoothing Out Rough Walls with Slurry - Everest Paints

Plus

How to Paint Pebbledash: Spraying vs. High-Pile Rollers - Everest Paints

Plus

Expert answers on stabilising, repairing, and waterproofing exterior walls.

Masonry Preparation FAQs

Stabilising (Chalky & Dusty Walls)

The number one reason masonry paint peels is a "friable" surface. As old paint ages, the binder breaks down, leaving a powdery residue. If you paint directly over this chalky layer, the new paint sticks to the dust, not the wall, and will eventually fall off.

How do I know if my wall needs a Stabilising Primer?

Perform the "Thumb Test." Rub your palm or thumb firmly across the existing painted surface. If your hand comes away white or powdery, the surface is "chalking." You must wash it down and apply a Stabilising Solution to bind the loose particles before painting.

Should I use Water-Based or Solvent-Based Stabiliser?

This depends on the severity of the problem.

  • Solvent-Based (High Performance): Required for very chalky, old, or highly porous surfaces. The solvent particles are smaller and penetrate deeper to lock the surface together.
  • Water-Based (Eco-Friendly): Suitable for slightly dusty surfaces or newer render that just needs a light seal.
Can I just dilute my masonry paint instead of buying a primer?

On bare, sound render, a "mist coat" (diluted paint) is often fine. However, on chalky or flaking surfaces, diluted paint is not enough. You need the specific binding resins found in a Stabilising Solution to glue the surface back together.

Repairs (Cracks & Blown Render)

Exterior walls move with thermal expansion and contraction. Rigid fillers (like standard cement) often crack and fall out because they cannot handle this movement. Successful masonry repair requires flexible materials that move with the building.

Can I just paint over hairline cracks?

No. Paint is a thin coating, not a filler. Even if the paint bridges the crack initially, it will snap open as soon as the weather changes. You should fill hairline cracks with a flexible exterior acrylic filler or use a "High Build" reinforced coating designed to bridge small fissures.

What is "Blown" render and how do I find it?

"Blown" render means the render has detached from the brickwork behind it, leaving a hollow air pocket. You can find it by tapping the wall with a hammer handle; it will sound hollow compared to the solid "thud" of good render. These areas must be hacked off and patched, or they will eventually fall off.

Should I use silicone sealant for cracks?

Never use standard silicone sealant on areas you intend to paint. Paint will not stick to silicone (it repels it), leaving you with an ugly unpainted stripe. Always use a "Paintable" external filler or polyurethane sealant.

Waterproofing & Damp

Penetrating damp occurs when rain soaks through the pores of the brick or stone. Clear water repellents (impregnators) are the best way to stop this without changing the look of your home.

Will a Water Seal change the colour of my brickwork?

A high-quality Silane/Siloxane impregnator should dry clear and invisible (matte). It soaks into the brick rather than sitting on top like a varnish. However, cheaper "varnish-style" sealers can leave a "wet look" or sheen, so always check the label or do a patch test.

Can I paint over a Water Repellent later?

Generally, no. Water repellents are designed to repel liquids—including liquid paint. If you seal your wall now, you may not be able to paint it for 5-10 years until the sealer wears off. Decide if you want a natural look (Clear Sealer) or a coloured look (Masonry Paint) before you start.

What is the difference between Rising Damp and Penetrating Damp?

Rising Damp comes from the ground up (usually stopping at 1 meter high) due to a failed damp proof course. Penetrating Damp can happen anywhere on the wall (even high up) and is caused by rain soaking through porous brick or cracks. Our sealers are designed to stop Penetrating Damp.

Didn’t find your answer?

Don't hestitate to contact us

Workshop table with paint cans, color swatches, and tools in a workshop setting.

The Help & Technical Hub

Our coatings are backed by more than just performance — they’re supported by clear documentation, practical guides, and real technical support.

The Help & Technical Hub brings together preparation guides, application advice, FAQs, SDS & TDS downloads, and system recommendations to help you choose, apply, and maintain the right coating with confidence.

Visit the Help & Technical Hub Contact Technical Support